Mario's Restaurant: A Hole-in-One Hole-in-the-Wall

In this little hole in the wall restaurant just outside of the Larchmont district, there is a magical Peruvian restaurant that will knock your socks off. The best damn ceviche you will ever have, the best battered fish you will ever have, and the best beef saltado you will ever even dream of. This is Mario's Restaurant.

The wait will be crazy and the parking will be ridiculous, but once you get in and manage to get yourself seated in the very humbly inexpensive tables and chairs, you'll find yourself surrounded by a surprisingly quiet restaurant--because everyone is eating.

The ceviche is sliced larger than usual, with pieces of squid and octopus, but like Wilson in Culver City (which is now closed! :( ), it is cooked amazingly tenderly. The result is a ceviche which is not only perfectly tart, but also perfectly tender AND al dente, if you will.

The battered fish is salty and slightly spicy, but the perfect consistency of a high-end fish and chips, without the high-end price tag or the low end breadiness. A treat for future Lenten seasons!

The saltado was my favorite. The fries appeared to be sauteed with the meats for the perfect amount of time, to make them flavorful without losing the crispiness. The seasoning of the meat was the real winner, though, with a rich flavor that only years of history could inspire. Apparently the owners are Chinese, but they are transplants from Peru itself! Way to bring the homeland food to LA--this place is quite a treat at a great price point with the authenticity to boot.

Mario's Peruvian & Seafood Restaurant
5786 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90038 - (323) 466-4181